I used to chase fashion week calendars with fervour. The obsession began when I was a journalism student in New York City in the noughties, where style lived on the streets as much as in the pages of magazines, driven by the rise of street-style photographers like The Sartorialist’s Scott Schuman.
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Back then, I devoured every issue of Vogue, lingered too long in Soho boutiques I couldn’t afford, and plotted my after-class schedule so I could stand in line at sample sales in the hopes of scoring designer pieces for less.
Later, as a fledgling fashion writer for a national newspaper in Singapore, I channelled that energy into print by reporting on runway shows, decoding trends and breathlessly highlighting the season’s must-have It bags, colour palettes and silhouettes.
But while I was surrounded by exquisite things, I felt oddly removed from it all. Let’s face it: no rookie reporter’s salary was going to stretch to a Celine Luggage or red-soled Louboutin stilettos – the fashion hallmarks of the late Y2K era.
I was immersed in the fantasy, yet couldn’t afford to live it.
Around that time, I booked a holiday to Tokyo, partly to decompress and partly out of curiosity about the city’s reputation as a fashion capital that marches to its own beat. Fashion labels like Comme des Garçons were celebrated on global runways for their sculptural, all-black avant-garde creations laced with unexpected whimsy, while FRUiTS magazine was catapulting the eclectic, rebellious street style of Harajuku denizens to international cult status.
Photos: Kindal, Archive, Ragtag
While wandering through Harajuku, I stumbled upon a Ragtag store. Today, the company is one of Japan’s most well-known preloved fashion chains, renowned for its expertly curated selection of secondhand designer pieces. On that trip, I discovered a world that instantly reshaped the way I thought about fashion.
Lined up with casual nonchalance on metal rails were pristine pieces by Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and more – designers whose shows I had feverishly covered and whose work I revered from afar.
Some were classic black staples, while others were impossibly deconstructed and wildly expressive in a way that only made sense in Japan.
The best part? When I tentatively peered at the price tags, I had to do a double take. Although they weren’t bargain-basement cheap, they were actually somewhat affordable – at least for someone who was willing to make a few sacrifices in the name of fashion.
For the first time, this was real style I could buy, wear and live in. It felt as though someone had flung open the gates to a secret archive and handed me the key.
Photos: Amore, Amore, New York Joe Exchange
Only then did I find out about the store’s pre-loved ethos. I wasn’t new to trawling thrift and charity shops, but I had never encountered a secondhand trove like this, where everything was not only covetable but pristine and fairly priced.
Even the faintest hallmarks of wear such as a softened waistband or the gentle curve of a lapel felt more like a trace of the life the garment had lived before it found me.
I walked out with a Comme des Garçons blazer and a minimalist Yohji Yamamoto dress, both of which still hang in my closet today.
Since then, I’ve made a ritual of carving out time for a shopping getaway in Tokyo at least once a year, and I try to drop by local secondhand fashion stores in any Japanese city I visit. All these years on, even though I’ve since had the chance to trawl many more pre-loved stores in Singapore and throughout the world, what keeps me returning to Japan is how singular the secondhand shopping experience is here.
With a national culture of meticulous care and a deep reverence for craftsmanship, preloved items in Japan are often in better condition than anywhere else, and even the most unassuming shop might yield archival treasures for those willing to dig deep.
If you’re ready to start your own hunt, here are a few of my favourite preloved haunts in the city.
Photos: Karen Tee, Amore, Tokyo City Flea Market
Archive Store
Tucked away in a basement of an unassuming Shibuya building, Archive Store feels more like an avant-garde fashion museum than a shop. Its meticulously curated racks feature rare, archival pieces by heavyweights like Martin Margiela, Raf Simons, Helmut Lang and Rei Kawakubo. Come here for a masterclass in conceptual fashion history.
Amore Vintage
For vintage designer handbags, check out Amore Vintage. With several locations across Tokyo, including a dedicated store for all things Chanel, it’s a great stop for sourcing coveted pieces from international brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton and Gucci. Bags are carefully authenticated and stores carry a strong selection of accessories and jewellery to match.
Preloved chain stores
A shortcut to getting into Japan’s resale scene is to check out its national chain stores. Shops like Ragtag, 2nd Street, and Kindal – all personal favourites – have multiple locations across major cities, with consistently well-curated selections that vary depending on each brand’s focus. For example, Ragtag and Kindal lean towards designer and cult labels, while 2nd Street and TreFacStyle mix in high street and more accessible Japanese brands. Find a chain you like, and you’ve got a reliable way to secondhand-shop your way through the country.
Shimokitazawa
A vintage lover’s haven, the Shimokitazawa neighbourhood is packed with resale stores and indie boutiques, many specialising in Americana. Think varsity jackets, denim and old-school workwear. Don’t miss New York Joe Exchange, a former sento (public bathhouse) turned cult resale store, which holds a 50 per cent off sale on the first Sunday of every month. Prepare for queues, but also excellent finds.
Oedo Antique Market
Held regularly in central Tokyo on Sundays (exact dates here), the Oedo Antique Market is one of the city's most extensive open-air bazaars for vintage and collectibles. Expect everything from Japanese ceramics and antique prints to old toys, costume jewellery and vintage kimonos. Gentle bargaining is tolerated but usually only entertained for those buying multiple items.
Tokyo City Flea Market
With some 300 to 500 stalls spread across the sprawling car park of Oi Racecourse, this weekend flea market is Tokyo’s largest. It’s a treasure trove of clothing, accessories, toys and oddities. Go with cash and an open mind – you never know what you might find.
