There are streets that change with you – places you return to over the years, only to find yourself mapping personal history onto public space. For me, that street is Telok Ayer in Singapore.
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It’s a narrow stretch that today heaves with some of the city’s coolest spots – yet look closer and you’ll find places of faith quietly holding their ground.
This is where the sacred and the everyday coexist: Temples and mosques tucked between izakayas, cafes, and wine bars. Once the first landing point for migrants arriving by sea, Telok Ayer remains a living reflection of how different worlds can overlap without erasing one another.
As cultural diversity is quietly chipped away across cities around the world, I return here to reconnect with Singapore’s multiculturalism that has existed for some 200 years.
In the 19th century, Telok Ayer sat at the waterfront, its shores crowded with arrivals from China, India, and the Malay Archipelago. Many built places of worship to give thanks – Thian Hock Keng Temple, Nagore Dargah, and Al-Abrar Mosque among them.
Clan associations and guild houses followed, forming a dense network of communal ties, faith, and mutual aid. Though land reclamation has pushed the sea far from view, the spirit of first arrivals – and their resolve – still hums beneath the surface.
Today, exploring Telok Ayer feels like tracing the layers of a palimpsest – one where ancestral hopes, acts of worship, and modern reinvention coexist.
It’s a microcosm not just of Singapore, but of the world: A place where faiths brush shoulders, languages blur, and belonging is built not from uniformity, but from coexistence.
Here are some of my favourite places to experience the neighbourhood’s storied past and its current atmosphere.
What to see and do
Thian Hock Keng Temple
Built in 1839, Thian Hock Keng is one of Singapore’s oldest Hokkien temples and a masterpiece of traditional Chinese joinery, constructed entirely without nails. Its elaborate rooftop dragons, intricately carved beams, and hand-painted porcelain tiles reflect Southern Chinese temple design at its finest.
Being inside is a reprieve from the glass and concrete skyscrapers a short walk away, and reminds me of the incredible built heritage of Singapore long before our buildings started to reach for the skies. Dedicated to Mazu, goddess of the sea, this was a spiritual home for migrants who gave thanks after surviving the sea crossing.
Back when Telok Ayer faced the shore, this was one of the first stops for new arrivals. Today, it remains a living place of worship, where devotees still light incense and whisper quiet prayers beneath the watchful gaze of deities. 158 Telok Ayer Street.
Nagore Dargah
Tucked between shophouses on Telok Ayer, Nagore Dargah is a small but striking shrine built in the early 1800s by South Indian Chulia merchants. Dedicated to a Muslim saint from Nagore, Tamil Nadu, it served as a spiritual anchor for the Tamil Muslim community. Its unique façade blends Indo-Islamic and European neoclassical elements where Corinthian columns are crowned with arched windows and delicate latticework – a rare architectural hybrid in the city.
Now home to the Indian Muslim Heritage Centre, the building offers lessons on the community’s contributions to Singapore’s early trade and multicultural identity. The space is modestly sized and I often make it a point to bring friends from abroad here for a deeper understanding on our diverse communities. 140 Telok Ayer Street.
Al-Abrar Mosque
Also known as the Chulia Mosque, Al-Abrar Mosque has stood on Telok Ayer since 1827, making it one of Singapore’s earliest Islamic places of worship. Built by Tamil Muslims from South India, it served as a spiritual and social refuge for early migrants navigating life in a new city.
Its white façade and twin minarets blend colonial and South Indian styles, marking entry into a peaceful prayer hall that offers a quiet contrast to the buzzing commercial street outside. Visitors are welcome outside prayer times. 192 Telok Ayer Street.
Ying Fo Fui Kun Clan Association
Founded in 1822 by Hakka immigrants from Guangdong, this is one of Singapore’s oldest clan associations. It offered lodging, employment help, and a sense of belonging to new arrivals. The current mid-19th-century building features a restored Southern Chinese façade with a red-tiled roof and symmetrical design.
Though still a functioning private association, visitors can admire its exterior and, occasionally, peek inside – a quiet reminder of how clan networks once shaped Singapore’s migrant communities. 98 Telok Ayer Street.
Where to eat and drink
My Awesome Café
Housed in a former Chinese medical hall, My Awesome Café blends heritage bones with industrial chic. Exposed brick, vintage cabinets, and raw concrete floors create a space that feels lived-in yet curated – much like the menu itself, which is packed with hearty sandwiches, grain bowls, and wholesome all-day brunch fare. Their house-made kombucha and herbal-infused cocktails are worth lingering over. 202 Telok Ayer Street.
French Fold
Just next door, French Fold brings a slice of Brittany to Singapore with its authentic galettes and crêpes. The space is elegant yet relaxed, filled with warm woods, leather banquettes, and quiet Parisian flair. As a Singaporean living in France who goes back home fairly frequently, I meet up with friends here when they’re hankering for proper French food.
I love the buckwheat galette stuffed with truffled ham and Comté, which has just enough cheese to be indulgent but not cloyingly rich. For something sweet, go for the classic butter-sugar crêpe that’s best enjoyed with a strong espresso. Ideal for a long, late breakfast or a lazy afternoon catch-up. 204 Telok Ayer Street.
Meatsmith Telok Ayer
For a smoky hit of Americana in the heart of heritage Singapore, Meatsmith delivers in spades. I come by when I’m feeling particularly carnivorous. It’s bold, loud, and unapologetically meat-forward – think 16-hour briskets, pulled pork, and sticky ribs straight from the smoker. While the vibe leans casual, there’s real technique on the plate. It’s great for large groups where you can mill around and down a few beers. Go hungry. 167–169 Telok Ayer Street.
Napoleon Wine Bistro
A refined yet unpretentious bistro serving modern European fare alongside over 30 wines by the glass, all from French vineyards. Think steak frites, duck confit, and cheese boards that encourage long, lazy lunches. The interior is soft-lit and quietly elegant, ideal for a simple date night or a lo-fi night cap after exploring the neighbourhood. 206 Telok Ayer Street.
Gold Ocean Curry Fish Head
A bit of a local secret, this no-nonsense eatery dishes up a flavour bomb of a fish curry, served bubbling in a claypot and loaded with okra, tofu puffs, and tangy spice. Expect a lunch crowd and formica tables – but also one of the best renditions of this Singaporean-Indian-Chinese dish in town. 181 Telok Ayer Street.
Le Shan Café
This laidback café, tucked within the historic Thian Hock Keng Temple, is my go-to spot when I’m in the area and in need of a quiet pause. At lunchtime, it serves up classic Peranakan and Singaporean fare – like Ayam Tempra, a soy-braised chicken dish with a citrusy lift, served alongside striking blue pea rice. You’ll also find colourful trays of kueh (traditional bite-sized sweets made from rice flour, coconut, and pandan) and bowls of creamy cendol – a shaved ice dessert layered with pandan jelly, red beans, coconut milk, and smoky palm sugar. 168 Telok Ayer Street.
