While Bangkok might be better known for its rooftop bars, shopping malls, and street food so good travellers don’t bother to wake up for hotel breakfasts, there’s a quieter side that locals often take respite in: our parks.
✦
When we need a break from all those skyscrapers and urban chaos, these green lungs are where we head to. And no, they’re not just bits of grass tucked between condos. These are living, breathing escapes where the hustle hushes for a moment…and you might even hear your own thoughts.
Here are my three favourites.
Benjakitti Forest Park: A rewilded daydream
Benjakitti used to be a swampland beside the Queen Sirikit Convention Centre. Then it became a fish pond, and then a manicured lakeside circuit where joggers and tai chi practitioners spent mornings and evenings. I’ve been visiting the area for over three decades – and as I grew up, it grew.
Then, in true Bangkok fashion, it got a dramatic glow-up. The new Benjakitti Forest Park is exactly what it says on the tin.
Picture elevated walkways over actual wetlands, shaded bike paths, lotus ponds shimmering in the sun, and enough wild reeds and grasses to make you forget you’re anywhere near Sukhumvit.
It’s so lush, birds once thought to be extinct in Bangkok have started showing up again. Now, local birdwatchers flock here to catch a glimpse of these rare winged visitors making a comeback. My friends have even spotted owls (never before seen in Bangkok) peeping out of tree trunks.
It’s also become a weekend favourite for Thai families, groups of friends, run clubs, and the occasional couple in matching outfits. You’ll see them wandering the lotus ponds, phone in hand, angling for that perfect Instagram shot. You’ll also see photographers with all manner of equipment, following brides-to-be and university graduate hopefuls, taking their best photos.
And oh, that sunset. When the light spills across the water and the skyline catches fire behind the trees – that’s when I’m grateful for living in Bangkok and being there at that very moment.
Credit: Peter Borter, Sassi Tha
Bang Krachao: The jungle across the river
Bang Krachao isn’t technically part of Bangkok, but let’s not be petty about borders. We call it Bangkok’s ‘Green Lung’ – a lush, jungly area with an island feeling to it, just across the Chao Phraya River. This is where locals go when they want nature without needing to pack a weekend bag. (Though you can totally pack a weekend bag. More on that in a sec.)
To get there, hop on a longtail boat from Khlong Toei Pier and in two minutes you’re in another world – one with banana trees, sleepy sois, and birdcalls louder than car horns. It’s like being transported to the Bangkok of yesteryear, where the slow life ruled.
The thing to do in Bang Krachao is to rent a bike, preferably with a basket for snacks, and follow the raised concrete paths that snake over canals and through backyard gardens.
The heart of the area is Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park, complete with a peaceful lake, bike-friendly trails, and, yes, swan boats. Butterflies drift across your path, and somewhere nearby, someone’s inevitably playing luk thung (Thai folk music) from a radio on their porch.
On weekends, check out the Bang Nam Phueng Floating Market, which is somehow both adorable and authentic. Try the grilled banana fritters, buy some old-school herbal compresses to soothe aches, and sample fruits that look like they came straight out of Thai mythology. One of my favourites? A waxy, jelly-like palm fruit called look laan that supposedly fruits only once every hundred years (okay, not literally, but it feels that rare). Served with ice, it’s not dissimilar to palm fruit – cool, slippery, and refreshing in the humidity.
And if you want a longer getaway, stay the night. Bang Krachao has a smattering of charming homestays and eco-stays. Eat at nondescript local shops, cycle to a temple, and fall asleep to the sound of frogs and geckos. This is still technically the Bangkok area – something you may forget when you’re sipping herbal tea under a mangrove tree.
Credit: Deepavali Gaind, Gab Vidal
Lumpini Park: Bangkok’s lizard-filled living room
Lumpini, or Suan Lum, as it’s locally known, is probably Bangkok’s oldest park. It’s the OG where die-hard aerobics fans have been gathering for decades at dawn and dusk, moving to tracks thumping out of bluetooth speakers. Where first dates happen on old paddle boats on the lakes, and where families attempt to row as well.
Set right in the middle of the capital, next to Bangkok’s business district, it isn’t exactly a quiet park to chill at, but it does have a relaxing vibe compared to the rest of the city. It’s a landmark that us Bangkokians have grown up with.
The lake sometimes reflects a few high-rises, and the pathways wind through everything from banyan trees to random outdoor gym contraptions that look more like kids’ playground equipment. There’s a newly renovated gym with very friendly prices, and a hall where dance classes and all manner of recreational activities take place.
It’s also here where you’ll meet Bangkok’s cast of regulars. This is a great spot to people-watch, cat-watch, and even croc-watch. Okay, I’m kidding – those creatures you’ll see everywhere are just water monitor lizards living their best life, taking to the water, climbing up trees, or simply chilling in the sun. These gentle giants roam the park like it’s their kingdom – which, let’s be honest, it definitely is.
Credit: Vizag Explore, Vitalijs Barilo, Lidia Stawinska
A walk on Bangkok’s wild side
Bangkok’s green spaces aren’t about perfection. They’re not museum pieces. They’re not particularly manicured. They’re lived in, loved, a little unruly – just like the city itself.
So next time the heat’s too much, or the traffic’s a mess, or you just want to remember that this city can still surprise you, slip into one of these green corners. You might forget, just for a moment, that you’re in Bangkok at all – until a street vendor sidles up near you, sticky rice or Thai milk tea in hand.