
Anuj Behal
Mapping belonging: A guide to Delhi’s queer heritage sites
Sometime in the early 16th century, in the scrub and stone of what is now Delhi’s Mehrauli Archaeological Park, a poet named Jamali wrote verses that shimmered with longing.

Anuj Behal
India’s guest houses, where the living await salvation
The city of Varanasi – or Kashi, as its people know it – sits on a bend of the Ganga in India’s Uttar Pradesh state. Author Mark Twain described it to be older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and to look twice as old as all of them put together.