Sukhumvit is one of my favourite areas in Bangkok – it’s fairly touristed, yes, but also authentically local, with high-rise office buildings, sleek condos, and a thriving food culture.
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I’ve been a Sukhumvit girl for the past 10 years, where I lived in Thonglor for eight. I’m now in my second year at Asoke, and I don’t think I’ll ever leave this district, with its combination of modern conveniences and cultural flavour.
Getting around is easy thanks to the BTS Skytrain’s Sukhumvit Line, which connects the entire area and makes hopping between neighborhoods a breeze.
Pro tip: Locals often refer to each part of Sukhumvit by the name of the nearest BTS station – like Asoke, Phrom Phong, or Ekkamai – which is a handy way to orient yourself.
What’s perhaps more difficult is deciding where to eat, because there are tons of tasty, legitimately Thai spots. So here’s my hitlist of Sukhumvit’s best eats, curated after my decade of living here.
All of these places are my regulars and favourites – read: Where locals actually eat.
Hero photo: Yoshitsugu Saito. Above photos: Joshua Kettle (left), Streets of Food (right)
Ruam Sab Market (Asoke BTS)
Asoke is full of office buildings with some apartment blocks, a university and a few schools – and where there are people who live, work and study, good food follows. Ruam Sab is a large indoor day market that opens weekdays only, where you can buy food from over 50 shops and sit at the provided seating area. Avoid the lunch hour if you don’t like big crowds.
Must-try: Beef kebab from Shawarma Kebab Man
Sab Sudjai (Thonglor BTS)
Thonglor is known for its vibrant nightlife – think fancy cocktail bars and upscale restaurants. But if you know where to look, you’ll find some hidden local eatery gems. Thai food is very different in all regions and this place serves some solid Thai northeastern (aka Isan) food. Head here if you love spicy flavours.
Must-try: Isan-style hot pot set
Tang Meng (Thonglor BTS)
This family-run shophouse has been around since Thonglor Road was still a canal. And somehow, amid the constant changing of the landscape around it, the charmingly retro space prevails. They sell khao mun gai (chicken and rice), khao moo grob (crispy pork and rice) and noodles, and cook everything using charcoal stoves. Be prepared to smell as deliciously smoky as the food after eating here.
Must-try: Yentafo tom yum noodles, and also their crispy pork served with sweet soy sauce
Thonglor Phochana (Thonglor BTS)
If you’re a foodie, you’ve probably heard of the famous Wattana Panich beef noodle shop in Ekkamai. It’s known for serving the richest beef broth – and never having washed the pot they cook it in. If you’d rather try an alternative spot around the area, head over to this family-run place opposite Thonglor Police Station. They’ve been serving beef noodles for over 30 years (the place is now run by the second generation), and the food is just as delicious.
Must-try: Beef noodles
Photos: Pradamas Gifarry (left), Streets of Food (right)
Era-izaan (Ekkamai BTS)
While this place isn’t as OG as the rest on my list, it’s become a real hot spot amongst locals. Thailand’s northeastern region – known as Isan – is home to well-known favourites like som tum (spicy papaya salad) and pla ra (fermented fish), and this place brilliantly blends those Isan flavours with a Japanese izakaya vibe and cooking techniques.
Must-try: Thai catfish grilled in Japanese unagi style
Nhong Rim Klong (Ekkamai BTS)
Even though this place is fairly popular with tourists, it’s worth visiting for its simple, Thai everyday dishes, made with great ingredients. I especially love their seafood dishes, many of which come with giant prawns or super fresh squid. This is also a great alternative for crisp, plump crab omelette if you’re tired of queuing at the crazy popular Jay Fai in Old Town, or Here Hai down the road.
Must-try: Crab omelette
SWU Night Market (Asoke BTS)
Did you know: There’s a night market every Friday right in the middle of Asoke, on the grounds of Srinakharinwirot University? Here, you’re guaranteed to find almost every local hit. Go hungry! Pro tip: If you’re unavailable on Friday, the same market also runs every Tuesday and Thursday morning until the lunch hour is over.
Must-try: Everything
Zaew noodles 49 (Thonglor BTS)
Not to be confused with Zaew Thonglor on the main Sukhumvit road, this Zaew is located on Sukhumvit Soi 49 and has been around for decades. What they serve is similar to the Michelin-approved Rung Rueang Pork Noodle (Phrom Phong BTS), and many locals (myself included) feel that this place is actually better. Don’t be alarmed by the yelling aunties during lunch hour – they’re just very, very busy. Go early in the morning to avoid waiting for your table.
Must-try: Tom yum noodles
