There are some travellers who are happy to visit a place once and never go back, believing that they’ve seen it all.
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Then there are the lucky ones, like Ajay Paliwal, who have the wide-eyed, open-minded gift of being always able to draw something new from a place, no matter how often they’ve been there.
I first met Ajay on a walking tour of the Taj Mahal. If I hadn’t known better, I would’ve thought he was seeing it for the first time: There he was, swooning at it, eyes dreamy as if in a reverie.
The truth is, he was my guide to the 17th century mausoleum, and having been one for 30 years, had seen it some 600 times.
Inspiringly, Ajay, who works with the adventure travel operators Abercrombie & Kent, has never grown tired of it. “What enchants me most is how it seems to change with every visit – its mood, colour, presence,” he says. “At sunrise, the marble glows with a soft pink hue, delicate and almost ethereal. By midday, it radiates a brilliant white under the sun. And in the evening, especially at dusk, it shimmers a silvery-mauve and with a quiet grace that feels otherworldly.”
“Each time I see it, it offers a new emotion. Sometimes peaceful, sometimes awe-inspiring, sometimes profoundly moving.”
If it’s your first, second, or even third time visiting the Taj Mahal, being there can be overwhelming – not just because it’s perpetually packed, but because of the sheer size of the site (17 hectares! Many buildings!). So who better to ask than Ajay for tips on how to best navigate the complex?
Here are his suggestions, from the best way to get in and the prettiest time of day to visit, to where precisely to stand to get that postcard-perfect photo.
Hero photo: Sylwia Bartyzel. Above photo: Audrey Phoon
Best way to enter the complex
“Use the East entrance and avoid the South and West gates. The East gate typically has shorter lines than the others, especially for foreign tourists.
Arrive before sunrise. If the Taj Mahal opens 30 minutes before sunrise, early arrival means shorter lines, cooler temperatures, and incredible golden-hour lighting.
Buy your ticket online in advance via the Archaeology Survey of India website or app to skip the ticketing queue.
Travel light – security checks are strict, and carrying restricted items (like tripods, food, books, drones) will delay your entry or may even result in denied access. Bring only essentials like your phone and camera, wallet, and water (in a transparent bottle). Leave bulky bags at your hotel or in the cloakrooms near the gates.”
Best time of day to visit
“Sunlight constantly alters the Taj Mahal’s colour during the day, so it has a different beauty at different times. Technically you can make a visit at any time of the day.
But my favourite time is sunrise – that’s when the monument is like a blooming flower.
Moreover, if you visit in the early morning, you’ll avoid both the heat and most of the crowds. Getting up earlier can be very rewarding, especially for those in pursuit of the perfect photo.
If you’re not a morning person, a sunset visit is also a nice choice. The temperature cools, and the monument is surrounded by soft silver light. But usually, there are more visitors at sunset than at sunrise. Patience is necessary if you want to capture good pictures.”
Photo: Audrey Phoon
Best tips for photos at the site
“Take a wide-angle lens and one or two extra camera batteries. When on the grounds of the Taj Mahal, a wide-angle lens will do you well in helping to capture the whole structure.
The symmetry of the Taj and its reflection in the long pool, plus the gardens, create a perfectly balanced composition. Arrive early in the morning for softer light. Position yourself directly in line with the central dome. This is the classic postcard view.
When you’re inside the premises, you’ll notice two identical buildings flanking it. The guest house is to your right, facing the Taj Mahal. You can get a signature shot from here; this building frames the Taj beautifully and offers unique side perspectives. At sunrise, with the optimal light, the red sandstone of the guest house contrasts beautifully with the white marble. Use the archways to frame the Taj like a natural vignette.”
Best places to see the Taj Mahal without entering the complex
“The place to see and get the best panoramic shot of the Taj Mahal with its adjoining buildings, the mosque, and the guest house, is from across the Yamuna River at Mehtab Bagh. It’s a garden complex said to have been designed by Shah Jahan, the emperor who built the Taj Mahal, so he could admire the Taj from it. You’ll get a wide, serene view of the Taj reflected in the river, especially at sunset. Visit in the evening when the sun sets behind the monument for an unforgettable view.
The Taj Nature Walk offers a different perspective. A short walk from the main site, this off-the-radar trail offers unique angles of the Taj through trees and fields.
It’s also great for spotting birds and enjoying some peace away from the tourist buzz.
And at the Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra’s best hotel, you can get a breathtaking view of the Taj Mahal from every room.”
Photo: Audrey Phoon
Top places to get meaningful souvenirs in the area
“Agra exudes Mughal flair because of its glorious past, so here you can buy everything from handicrafts and leather goods to textiles, jewellery, and much more. But I recommend getting a piece of marble inlay. It would be the best memory of your Taj Mahal visit. Also, this art is indigenous to Agra. Kalakriti Cultural & Convention Center in Agra is well-known for its high-quality marble inlay souvenirs. It’s regarded as the best in town for the authenticity, quality control, and ethical sourcing of its products.”
Best similar monuments in India to visit for those who love the Taj Mahal
“Humayun’s Tomb in Delhi inspired the Taj Mahal. It’s made of red sandstone and white marble, and has a domed structure and lush gardens.
It’s less crowded and easier to explore up close and in the late afternoon, when the golden light hits the sandstone beautifully.
Itimad-ud-Daulah’s Tomb in Agra, also known as the Baby Taj, is often considered as the mini version of the Taj Mahal and was the first Mughal structure made entirely of white marble and richly inlaid with mosaic work.”
