Most itineraries to Bhutan start or end in the capital of Thimphu. With only a few days in the city, many tourists follow a cookie-cutter itinerary that covers the most famous attractions such as the giant Buddha Dordenma statue, the Royal Takin Preserve and the Thimphu Traffic Circle, where police direct vehicles in lieu of traffic lights (Thimphu is the only capital city in the world without traffic lights).
✦
But in reality, it has so much more to offer – if you know where to look. As someone born and raised in Thimphu, I’ve spent a lifetime exploring the side streets, hidden cafes, and quiet corners of this ever-evolving city.
When I see tour buses shuttling visitors to the same few attractions, I can’t help but smile…knowing that off the beaten path lies another version of Thimphu, just waiting to be discovered.
Here’s how to spend a day in Thimphu away from the usual sights.
9.00am
On days when I have a deadline or just want to feel productive, I start with a healthy breakfast at Ambient Cafe, located above the iconic Clock Tower. This vegetarian cafe is one of the few places where I can find a good selection of coffees grown and roasted in Bhutan.
10.00am
After breakfast, it’s a short walk to the VAST art gallery, along the Thimphu River. VAST, or Voluntary Artists Studio, was set up in 1989 as a way to encourage local creatives. As a young child with no art skills, I enjoyed weekend art classes and summer art camps with them. Now, as an adult with no art skills, I enjoy the work of local contemporary artists.
11.30am
From the gallery, it’s a quick walk to the Centenary Farmers Market. This is the perfect place to pick up groceries or find popular local produce such as red chilies and chogo (dried cheese cubes). If I’m in the mood for interesting knick-knacks, I head across the bridge to the Riverside Market.
12.30pm
For lunch, I often make my way to my favourite fast food joint, Burger Point. You might wonder why I’m recommending burgers to visitors but fear not, this is actually a great place for cheap local eats. Try the ting momo (Tibetan steamed bread) with beef stew, potato momo (dumplings) and thukpa (Tibetan noodle soup).
1.30pm
In the afternoons, I love walking through the main street of Norzin Lam, where two of my favourite shops are. Made in Bhutan redefines Bhutanese streetwear, combining trendy silhouettes with traditional fabrics. This is a good place to pick up a gift for the Gen-Z fashion icon in your life.
Across the street, Kelzang Textiles offers a variety of handwoven products. This is my go-to for local souvenirs for friends, and also where I come to look at gorgeous fabrics for kira and gho (our traditional outfits for women and men, respectively). Speak to the proprietor if you want to take part in their natural dyeing sessions or observe a weaver.
Photos: Kunzang P.C. Tshering
3.00pm
Tea time is the perfect occasion to head back to the Clock Tower and grab a coffee at the Tower Cafe. An iconic Thimphu venue popular among locals and tourists, this cosy cafe has seating outside where you can people-watch or enjoy soft-serve ice cream from the kiosk nearby.
4.30pm
This is when office-goers and fitness enthusiasts hit the road to get their daily recommended steps on one of our many walking trails. My favourite leads to Druk Wangditse Lhakhang, one of the oldest temples in the city. Located in Sangaygang above the takin reserve, this is a gentle 30-minute walk (one way) through a tree-lined path that opens to a gorgeous view of Thimphu.
6.00pm
As evening approaches, it's time to get a taste of Thimphu nightlife. I like to start every night out at the Drunken Yeti in Chubachu. This popular bar is best known for a wide variety of cocktails and local beers. Try the wicked ‘Yeti cocktail’, cordyceps-infused ‘Sildenafil’ shot (Bhutan is famous for our cordyceps), or ‘Amber Ale’.
7.30pm
My next stop is The Grey Area, a gastro-pub known for its live music performances and house music. I like to enjoy the music of local artists and DJs as I sip on their signature cocktails like the English Rose and Horny Fawaz, while tucking into wai wai chaat (a spicy instant noodle snack) and juma (blood sausage).
Photos: Kunzang P.C. Tshering
9.00pm
The night is still young and there are many places to explore. If I’m in the mood for karaoke, I’ll join other revellers in Shambhala Restaurant as they belt out the classics. While most karaoke places have private booths, at Shambala everyone joins in and takes turns on the mic. A memorable night here saw my friends and I singing Taylor Swift while another group belted out Dzongkha love ballads and a tourist group sang a popular Vietnamese TikTok song.
Otherwise, I’ll head to Mojo Park, an institution for live music in Bhutan and a platform for upcoming local bands.
12.00am
This is the perfect time to hit one of the clubs in the city. Space 34 is popular with those in their early 20’s – the music is a mix of Bhutanese pop, club music and Korean jams. Avenue 28 attracts a more mature clientele, which is reflected in the country ballads and Bollywood songs that play on the dance floor.
3.00am
This is when the clubs close and everyone slowly makes their way home. No matter how tired I am, I'll grab a late night thukpa (rice porridge) or fried rice sold by the street vendors outside the clubs. These are home-made, although if you're wary of street food, there are a few 24/7 convenience stores nearby.
Finally, after experiencing Thimphu like a true local, it's time for bed.
