Nasi padang is undeniably Indonesia’s most famous food. Originally introduced out of Padang in West Sumatra by the Minangkabau people, it’s more than just a meal – it's a cultural experience that sums up the richly diverse flavours and traditions of Indonesian cuisine.
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I was introduced to it from a young age because my father’s family was from Padang. Whenever we visited my grandmother in her village, she would be in her kitchen, standing over a woodfire stove and stirring a pot of rendang – a nasi padang mainstay – the aroma of slow-cooked spices filling the space.
While ‘nasi’ means rice, nasi padang is more than a plate of rice – it’s a flavourful and vibrant meal made up of steamed rice served with a seemingly endless stream of spicy and savoury dishes.
There’s the iconic beef rendang; spiced stews known as gulai; jackfruit and cassava cooked multiple ways; and so much more, all of which showcase the multitude of flavours that make up Minangkabau cuisine.
This is a meal you can never go wrong with, whether you have it at a street stall or a fancy restaurant, because the service is always fast, and the food tasty.
These days, the most delicious versions of nasi padang can arguably be found in Jakarta – where all the most well-known restaurants from across Indonesia have branches, and the best quality ingredients are available.
Each establishment usually has its own signature dish, from rendang and satay Padang, to the popular ayam goreng (fried chicken) and the less-known ayam pop (skinless fried chicken), so it’s worth visiting them all.
Another thing to know before you go: in Indonesia’s nasi padang culture, you don’t order the dishes you want. Instead, the servers will keep piling various dishes on your table, an approach to serving known as hidang. But don’t be alarmed if you can’t finish it all – you’ll only pay for what you eat.
Photos: Linda Thohir
Pondok Djaja: the king of ayam goreng
Opened in 1969, Pondok Djaja is probably one of the oldest Padang restaurants in Jakarta. This unassuming place is usually packed with people during lunchtime and for one good reason: its ayam goreng. The deep-fried, free-range chicken is very crispy on the outside but incredibly still moist and tender on the inside. Another favourite is tofu cooked with fermented soybean paste. This dish is a classic case of two cultures blending together: Minang and Chinese, which makes it quite unique.
📍 Jalan KH. Hasyim Ashari
📞 +62 21 6333662
Medan Baru: a marriage of influences
Tucked in Jakarta’s old business district, Medan Baru is a favourite among Jakarta’s older generations of business people. Its cuisine combines a fascinating unique blend of influences from West Sumatra, North Sumatra and Aceh, although it’s still considered a Padang restaurant. The fish head curry and deep-fried pigeon are a must. I strongly advise calling in advance for these two dishes.
📍 Jalan Krekot Bunder Raya
📞 +62 21 3844273
Photos: Linda Thohir
Sari Bundo: old-school flavours
Although now located on a busy street in Central Jakarta, Sari Bundo has a long history with a humble beginning. Over five decades, it has evolved from a small street vendor to a multi-branch empire. The quality and the taste, however, remain authentic and unchanged. This place is known for having perfected the art of cooking ayam pop – chicken that’s boiled, then lightly fried and served with cassava leaves and sambal. The original outlet is close to offices in the old business district, so if you want to avoid the lunch crowd and still have your pick of the dishes on their menu, go around 11am.
📍 1 Jalan Ir. H, Juanda (flagship outlet)
📞 +62 21 3458343
Sari Ratu: satay Padang champion
A legit Padang restaurant in a sterile mall was once unheard of, but Sari Ratu has changed all that. Since 1982, it has pioneered the entry of Padang restaurants into big malls. Here, the satay Padang is a must – a generous portion of beef satay accompanied by rice cakes and topped with richly spiced gravy.
📍 Plaza Indonesia, Jalan MH. Thamrin
📞 +62 21 21392791
Photos: Linda Thohir
Pagi Sore: authentic flavours in a modern setting
Pagi Sore’s modern facade and ambience may seem like a departure from the traditional Padang restaurant, but don’t be fooled: this is one of the most authentic Padang restaurants in Jakarta. Its rendang is distinctively delicious – dark from being cooked with lots of spices, it reminds me of my grandmother’s cooking. Some foodies come only for the rendang to bring home as gifts.
📍 Jalan Cipete Raya
📞 +62 21 7667000
Natrabu: the legend
Natrabu, one of Jakarta’s first high-end Padang eateries, started out as a small restaurant to complement a travel agency business. These days, the agency is gone, but the restaurant continues to thrive and has expanded into multiple locations. It’s loved by both local and foreign dignitaries, and is said to be a favourite of Malaysian prime minister Dr Mahathir Mohamad. His go-to dish? Dendeng balado, a spicy, savoury and aromatic dish of thinly sliced beef fried in a rich chili sauce.
📍 Jalan H. Agus Salim
📞 +62 21 31935668