While Bangkok may be hot on the tourist trail for many things, one must-do on most travellers’ lists is a massage. Whether you're after a quick foot session, a pampering full-day treatment at a five-star spa, or an exotic one down a nondescript alley, there’s a fix for you.
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Here, massage shops are everywhere – even in open-air markets (more on that later). That's because they're very much a part of everyday life, from local village healers who knead out ghosts from possessed villagers, to husbands and wives using the jub sen (energy lines) technique on their partners after a long day at work.
Thanks to the notorious ‘Happy Ending’ massage, many tourists have misconceptions about Thai massage.
In truth, the practice is world-renowned, with therapists coming from far-flung corners of the earth to learn from masters. Thai massage has even been recognised by the Ministry of Education and the Thai Ministry of Health as a branch of traditional Thai medicine.
Rooted in Indian ayurvedic and yogic traditions, Thai massage goes back over 2,500 years. It's believed to have been first developed by Jivaka Kumar Bhaccha, a physician contemporary of the Buddha, reaching Thailand alongside Buddhism.
Jivaka's teachings were inscribed onto stone tablets, which are now preserved within the walls of Bangkok's Wat Pho temple, or the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. The temple also houses one of the most prominent schools dedicated to Thai massage.
Visitors to Wat Pho may be able to get an authentic Wat Pho massage on site – sometimes there are long queues, sometimes one gets lucky. It’s a simple spot, but about as original as you can get. Here, students of the school practice their skills on willing clients.
Locals seeking quality at an affordable price know not to judge a book by its cover. Whether your masseuse is an elderly person, someone of a robust build, or a petite young woman, any of those hands can knead away aches and pains.
Spotted all around Wat Pho itself are shophouses claiming authentic lineage to its teachings. Practitioners, some certified by this prestigious school and others taught through the generations by family members, can be found throughout the city, sometimes, in the most surprising of places, like the Jatujak weekend market (also known as Chatuchak).
Walking through the market on a sweaty afternoon, with the heat and humidity at its height, my visiting friend and I paused for breath, looking for a cool drink in the chaos. Amongst the hordes wrestling for goodies in the tiny stalls, a lady approached us with a sign offering massages. We thought, na, in a place like Jatujak? But we were hot and sweaty with no drink in sight, so we decided to follow her in.
She took us through a maze of lanes and stalls, and soon we could smell jasmine and lemongrass, and see rows of toes peeping out from under partitions.
In a simple space with no name, we melted into cushy lazyboys, while the masseuses sat on stools, kneading away and sending us to bliss.
It’s often said that JJ (as we locals call the market) has everything, from pets to secondhand furniture to plants – but satisfying massages in between shopping stalls are rare.
While finding the exact shop I went to may be a bit complicated, just ask shopowners where the good massage spots in the market are, and they’ll send you on your way.
For a fancier massage moment, Divana’s multiple locations, each with their own signature environment and treatments, are loved by locals and visitors alike. The company has put the freestanding luxury Thai spa experience on the Bangkok map of must-dos.
Amongst its treatments are the White Lotus massage, where one’s body is wrapped in lotus leaves and petals and treated with various therapeutic materials sourced from the lotus plant.
Oasis is another established player in the luxury realm, having been around for about 25 years. It initially gained acclaim in Chiang Mai for pioneering the four-hands massage, where two therapists work in synchronised harmony. These massages are now generally found at the more sophisticated spas – worth a treat or a trial at least once.
Infinity offers a modern spa experience at an accessible price point across its two locations. In particular, it’s known amongst locals for its prenatal massage. They’ve also got beauty services like waxing and nails to cover visitors’ from top to toe.
I particularly enjoy their signature Hydroshower package, a gentler and more relaxing interpretation of the Turkish hammam, where they blend Thai techniques with hammam-style therapy and strategically use overhead showers at different stages of the treatment.
Photos: Oasis; Divana
For those looking to level up the therapeutic aspect, especially after a long, muggy day traipsing around Bangkok, an alternative to consider alongside a Thai foot massage is a specialised form of reflexology.
One such method, popularised locally by RWO-SHR Health (which draws from Taiwanese reflexology practices), focuses on numerous acupressure points on the feet.
Unlike the generally soothing nature of many Thai massages, this type of intensive foot reflexology is not for the fainthearted. It operates on the principle that specific points on the feet correspond to various organs and body parts, and aims to address issues like neck pain, backaches, constipation, sleep disturbances, and headaches through targeted pressure.
Be warned: It’s quite painful, so first timers may also find their vocal chords exercising involuntarily.
But subsequent treatments are often more manageable. Guasha on the neck and arms and neck massage is also part of the treatment, which is a nice bonus for me.
RWO-SHR Health is a well-known, original proponent of this specific reflexology method in Bangkok, with locals in the know streaming through steadily. Newcomers may feel it’s a bit masochistic, but if you’re not afraid of the pain for pleasure (later) principle, and if you’ve got persistent, stubborn ailments, it may be worth giving this a try. I, for one, have found that my office syndrome issues are usually much better after one of these.
