Whatever you’ve heard of Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown, now is the time to forget it. Yes, it’s true that the streets are chaotic and crammed with stalls piled high with imitation handbags and bargain buys; that the peddlers fronting the shops are often pushy; that many of the places in the area are tourist traps.
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But it’s also true that authenticity and culture still course through the alleyways. That there is much to discover beyond the brightest lights and loudest touts by way of sensitively repurposed heritage buildings and surprisingly tranquil courtyards. And for foodies like me, especially, it’s where some of KL’s best eats – from traditional street fare to more modern offerings – can be found.
Chowing down in Chinatown
While Chinatown is officially delineated by the towering Chinese arches that sit at both ends of Petaling Street (the neighbourhood’s main thoroughfare), when we locals say “Chinatown”, we’re referring to a wider area that fans out from Petaling Street and stretches towards the Klang River.
Photos: Lauryn Ishak
In this sprawl, the best place to start your culinary adventure is at Lai Foong Beef Noodles, a decades-old institution just off Jalan Tun H.S.Lee. The owner, Mr Tan, has been perfecting the recipe for his broth since he was a teen, and what you’ll get at your table is a rich and comforting bowl of beef noodle soup that has been simmered for eight hours and warms you from the inside out.
His son takes over the afternoon shift, a hopeful sign that KL-ites (and tourists alike) can savour this dish for another generation at least.
Traditional businesses like the Tans’ are common in the vicinity, especially along Petaling Street. Another worth zeroing in on is Kim’s Soya Bean – you’ll recognise it by the faded newspaper clipping at the front proudly declaring the stall’s most famous patron, former Malaysian Prime Minister Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamad. The ice-cold soya bean drinks here are perfect for quenching your thirst in muggy weather. Or order a bowl of taufufa (silken sweet tofu) for a sugar boost.
Moving down the street, keep your eyes peeled for the entrance to the Penjaja Gallery wet market (it’s still called Madras Lane by older folks, after the street’s colonial name), where you’ll find a nondescript food court.
It’s hot and there’s no air-conditioning, but it’s always packed with officegoers and locals, who come here for the famous yong tau foo (fried snacks stuffed with fish paste) and curry noodles.
There are loads of good hawker stalls along the adjacent Jalan Sultan as well, like Tian Tong Noodle Trading, where you’ll see workers frying yee mee (wheat flour noodles) in giant, bubbling vats of oil.
A new spin
Like many of KL’s older neighbourhoods, Chinatown has undergone some gentrification in recent years, with chic cafes, boutiques, and trendy restaurants attracting a new breed of young and hip travellers. Take Kwai Chai Hong, or ‘Little Ghost Alley’. Once notorious for vice and neglect, it’s been revitalised with colourful murals and has become one of Chinatown’s most Instagrammed locations.
There’s also Chocha Foodstore, formerly a brothel, now a restaurant that serves creative modern Malaysian cuisine. Not that you’d know if you passed it: The restaurant’s facade remains unchanged, its original Mah Lian Hotel signage, tiles, and grilles still in place.
Photos: Neil Mogol
Rex KL is where the cool kids hang out. Formerly a cinema, the space is now an arts and culture hub, with regular weekend markets, gigs, and events. Parts of the former theatre are now lined with books at BookXcess, a bookstore that sells discounted extra books at affordable prices, while another section of the theatre hall hosts immersive digital art shows.
On the ground floor, you’ll find excellent bites and booze. Phil’s Pizza dishes out hot, gooey slices of pizza with a crust to die for, while fafaba offers a curated list of orange wines from independent wineries.
While you’re at Rex, keep an eye out for Eddy, too, the resident tuxedo cat who prowls the bike shop on the ground floor.
Hidden histories
Food aside, our Chinatown is a treasure trove of heritage and culture, and a stroll around the area is the perfect way to burn off those calories in between meals.
Sandwiched between shop lots in the shadow of a skyscraper is Sin Sze Si Ya Temple, one of the oldest Taoist temples in the city. Its entrance is modest, almost hidden, but walk in and you’ll find yourself in a peaceful courtyard.
Inside the shrine, the rafters are dark with decades of incense smoke, as devotees offer up prayers to deities seated on elaborate altars. Mere mortals are worshipped too: Note the corner dedicated to Kapitan Yap Ah Loy, the 18th century Chinese leader and businessman whom many consider to be the founder of Kuala Lumpur.
Photos: Lauryn Ishak
A few streets away, along Jalan Panggong, is a blue-and-white building that resembles a police station. This is Gurdwara Sahib Polis, a Sikh temple built in the late 1800s for Sikh policemen under British rule. Despite being over a century old, the building is well maintained and offers a quiet respite for visitors from the hustle and bustle of the streets.
Opposite the gurdwara stands a row of historic shophouses, many of which have been taken over by new businesses. One, formerly a spirit distillery owned by the influential Loke Chow Kit (the very one who lends his name to a suburb, a street, and a monorail station), is now a café.
Another houses Beryl’s Chocolate, a local chocolate brand. Grab some edible souvenirs and while you’re at it, check out the building’s tunnel-like prewar layout, which extends back almost 120m.
This was common with many colonial shophouses in then-Malaya and Singapore, where the front of the shop was used for commercial purposes, while the back served as a living area for tenants. There are also two internal courtyards that open to skylights, which in the old days were used for light and ventilation.
Across the street is another heritage building – the old Pos Malaysia Office (Malaysia Post Office) – that has been transformed into a charming café called Kafei Dian.
Station masters used to live here, and when a new shipment of mail arrived, they would raise a flag, drawing crowds who would queue to see if their names and addresses would be called to receive a letter.
Today, you can still see relics of the old post office counters and even the door that led to its safe.
Most Chinatown locals are open to sharing their stories, but if you’re looking to dive deeper, walking tours like Kuala Lumpur Unscripted can bring you closer into the community. Some of the experiences on this tip-based walk may include visits to a third-generation tea merchant, or an opportunity to speak to local masters of Chinese painting and calligraphy.
So take a moment to wander through Chinatown the next time you’re in KL. Sip a drink, chat with a hawker, get lost in an alley or two. You’ll discover the oft-overlooked side of this multi-faceted neighbourhood, and probably – like me – fall in love with it.
