What many consider to be paradise, I call home. The idea of the Philippines as an irresistible tropical fantasy is one that I myself can't refute. There are all types of islands to cater to every kind of seeker here: For pleasure, for adventure, to be empty, to be full. And maybe even all of the above.
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I say this as a freediver; someone who spends a lot of my time intimately acquainted with the sea. And what more perfect place to do it in? Our seas offer calm entry at friendly temperatures, and the reefs are some of the most beautiful in the world.
I started taking freediving seriously in 2021, seeking myself, then finding a heartbeat.
On weekdays, I yield to life in the city as a creative director for the craft studio JOS Mundo, yet my output, soul, and virtue are derived outside of it. Underwater and above, the islands offer sensuality and colour that effortlessly feed into my love of craft and finding its expression in contemporary terms.
Hero photo: Project Lupad. Photos above: Karen Bolilia
In Sorsogon, the impeccable diving comes with the added bonus of being able to stay in the design-forward Siama Hotel, one of my favourite lowkey destinations in the country. In Siquijor, a small island charged with mystique, caring custodians oversee marine sanctuaries that dot its perimeter, an intersection of haven and heaven.
Coron can feel saturated, but swimming in a cathedral-esque cave, lit beautifully by the Tagbanua tribe who own the ancestral land and water rights to Coron, is worth the squeeze.
Dumaguete’s waters teem with sea grass, and are home to some of the largest concentration of turtles I’ve ever seen (its proximity to Apo Island, home to one of the world’s best-known community sanctuaries, is another pull).
Photos: Siama Hotel, Karen Bolilia
These days though, I tend to favour quiet, unassuming beaches, especially since tourists have descended en masse on so many of the islands – the volume creating a tension between servicing local economies and community care. This has given me a real push to support our more emerging islands. If you’re planning a visit, I urge you to consider them, too.
Romblon
Romblon has been at the top of my wish list for multiple reasons. It’s highly recommended by friends for its pristine beaches and underwater life that have yet to succumb to mass tourism and overexposure. Recently, I came across an account called @romblonfreediving, which teases days of freediving and exploring all over the archipelagic province, all of which are catnip to me.
Out on the remote island of Puro is another Romblon draw: Unna, an intriguing, idyllic private island stay that has been in the works for years. Its architect and owner Vianca Soleil Roquero’s dispatches on Instagram – sand between toes, a Frank Gehry chair to withdraw into after a day of sun – have made me itch for a stay here. They are finally taking in guests, and I can’t wait to visit.
Catanduanes Island
Lately, I’ve been wanting to get to know eastern Philippines more. It’s our windward, ocean-facing side, meaning the landscapes tend to be more dramatic, and the waves pummel enough to create surf. Catanduanes is the first landmass in the Philippines that kisses the Pacific, recalling the North Shore of Hawaii with its killer surf and spectacular vistas. I’m not a surfer myself, but have been crushing on this island hard. A province in the Bicol region, it’s starting to become known to locals as a surf spot and an alternative to more saturated areas like Siargao.
Photos: Unna, Jacky Lim
Biri, Samar
This was a hot tip from my friends in Sorsogon. Biri is accessible from Sorsogon via a boat ride, and can be done as a day trip. The rock formations are otherworldly, the tide pools crystal clear – it’s another gem in eastern Philippines that’s calling me. Seeing my friends frolic for a day in Biri animates the part of me that yearns for a slower life.
Camiguin Island
Like every place on this list, this came to me by word of mouth. An island shaped by volcanic activity, it’s home to a giant clam sanctuary, a sunken underwater cemetery, a gorgeous sandbar, and an Asean Heritage Park (plus multiple volcanoes, of course). Airport access to Camiguin and a growing range of accommodations gets me a step closer to realising my very distracting daydreams about the island and the surrounding Mindanao region.
Guimaras Island
The best mangoes in the Philippines – and this is saying a lot because mangoes are fantastic here – are known to be from this little island off the coast of Iloilo City. A roro (roll-on, roll-off ship) ride to Guimaras will take approximately 15 minutes to a number of beaches that offer countless underwater sidequests. One of my favourite things about traveling around the Visayas region is how it encourages spontaneity. Many island provinces are close to one another, and in a couple of hours or less, you can wake up and find yourself in a new place to discover and explore.
One is never too far away from sweetness in this land of fruit.
